Resort 2020 Travel Collections

[eureka]

Fashion has officially hit the 2020’s! While the next runway season is still several months away, fashion doesn’t sit still for long. Resort season, one of the two ready-to-wear inter-seasons, is already underway. One of the most exciting things about inter-seasons are the locations in which the collections are shown. Because they don’t happen as part of such a rigid show schedule, big name fashion houses often whisk their runway guests away to exciting locales across the globe. Four of this year’s biggest runways were held, not just in three different cities, but three different continents. As the fashion world looks to Australia for Sydney Resort Week, let’s take a look back at some of the most exciting travel locations this season!

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Marrakech has been a popular destination for travelers worldwide since the 1950’s heyday of Christian Dior. The stunning location has inspired two of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s most famous predecessors at the house; Yves Saint Laurent and Mr. Dior himself. However, Chiuri was not interested in the outsider’s perspective both men showed, but in highlighting artistic traditions and talents from within Africa. The collection featured no less than a half-dozen collaborations with artisans in Morocco, Ghana and Côte d’Ivoire, as well as African-American and British designers. A large portion of the collection was rendered in wax prints created by Ivorian atelier, Uniwax. This print helped inform the predominant maroon/green/tan color scheme of the collection. It also gave Dior’s iconic Bar jacket a new look. (Pun intended!) Rounding out the collection were a wide variety of looks that have become staples during Chiuri’s tenure at the brand; long jackets, smart trousers of every length, and embroidered dresses with full skirts. The show also closed on a fun note when a cat decided to join the models during their final turn on the runway!

PRADA

One should always know to expect the unexpected at Prada. The legendary Miuccia Prada has made name for herself with her “ugly-chic” designs. However, the unexpected this season came in the form of surprisingly simple designs. Mixing checkered prints or banded, multi-color silk and lace skirts might not be considered minimalist to most designers, but it certainly is by Prada standards. The majority of the collection could easily be found in the closet of a chic office workers. The elegant blazers, collared shirts, mid-calf skirts, and jackets were all work-appropriate and fashion-forward. Other pieces in the collection, like the various peasant blouses with embroidered flowers and smocked collars, would be perfectly suited for days off - or even a dress-down day. Another recurring design element was the use of circular appliqués of varying sizes, which looked almost like flower petals and could be found on both scarves and skirts. Of course, a Prada collection wouldn’t be complete without a touch of ugly-chic. This time, it was provided by the hiking boot/dad sneaker fusions paired with the majority of the collection’s looks.

CHANEL

This Chanel collection was probably the most highly-anticipated of the season, as it was the first one finished after the former director’s passing. The legendary Karl Lagerfeld’s long tenure at the brand, as well as its extensive history, have given the brand a very defined aesthetic. Virginie Viard, the former head of Chanel’s ateliers and the brand’s new creative director, worked alongside the late designer for years and knows the house codes well. One thing she kept were the grand sets in which Chanel is famous for staging its shows. The decision to show “at home”, in the Grand Palais where the house shows RTW and couture, was a conscious one, meant to put guests at ease in light of the recent changing of the guard. However, there was something softer about Viard’s interpretations of the classic Chanel jackets and tweet suits. There were also nods to Lagerfeld’s time at the house, like the dresses made from cut layers of printed chiffon or cycling shorts. Some looks seemed to nod to the eighties trend we saw last runway season, with paper bag pants, and wide-shouldered tops with a belted natural waist. There were options for every part of the faithful Chanel fanbase. Besides the suit sets the lifelong clients will admire, as well as pieces covered in interlocking C’s for the logo-savvy millennial crowd. The look of a brand can change drastically with the appointment of a new designer, but that doesn’t appear to be the case here if Virginie Viard’s first collection is anything to go by.

LOUIS VUITTON

After Paris, it was back to New York City for the final travel show of this resort season. Conveniently, the location also served as a major inspiration for Nicholas Ghesquière’s most recent Louis Vuitton outing. The opening look’s black and yellow pants could certainly be a nod to classic taxi cab designs - particularly in the black and white striped detail on the sides. Art Deco-esque embroidery evoked famous famous building from the city’s skyline, like the Empire Building and Chrysler Building. More specifically, the collection looked like an 80’s movie set in Manhattan, or perhaps a remake for the modern age. The decade served as a reference for Ghesquière’s previous runway collection, and the theme has carried over here. Besides the nipped, high-waisted pants and wide shoulders, there were also pinstripes, oversized blazers, and bubble skirts. The use of color blocking was another fun throwback, but it was done in a very creative and graphic way that made it still feel fresh. Even the bouffant hairstyles and the exaggerated blush of the makeup look recalled trends of the 80s. It was a fun collection with a diverse array of pieces for the LV-obsessed to choose from.