Top Shows of Paris Fashion Week, Part Two

[eureka]

—HERMÈS
Originally founded as a leather goods manufacturer, Hermès is probably most well-known for their bags and scarves. They also sell everything from soaps to furniture, but their ready-to-wear is the of the same high quality as the rest of their products. Nearly every look included some form of leather, (or reptile skin, or suede) which is to be expected of a brand with its history rooted in the manufacturing of the textile. There were chicly-belted pencil skirts in a variety of colors and textures, as well as jackets that ranged from a raincoat-like silhouette, to conservative versions of a motorcycle jacket, to large puffers. Leather also appeared as pocket details, edging around seams, and the lapels of blazers. While scarves themselves did not make an appearance, there were a variety of silk shirts that mimicked prints of the brand’s most famous designs. It was a modern collection full of rich colors and clean lines.

—BALENCIAGA
At Balenciaga this season, the word was “minimalism”. Gone were the meme-inspiring layered coats, platform Crocs, or money-print dresses. Instead, Demna Gvasalia showed a collection that primarily consisted of suiting. There were still plenty of oversized options to choose from, but most stayed within the realm of the eighties nostalgia trend that dominated this season’s runways. Those that were purposefully larger were more statement coats than something avant garde. Gvasalia’s knack for quirky tailoring was still on display, just in more subtle ways. The shoulders of blazers were rounded and stood up from the body, or sloped away like a sharper shoulder pad in others. In some looks, extra fabric from the back of the garment was folded back over the shoulders to give a similar appearance. Towards the end, there were a series of lapels wide enough to be used as a hood or scarf. The use of the Balenciaga logo and print are bound to strike a note with the younger clients as well.

—TOMMY HILFIGER
In the past few seasons, Tommy Hilfiger’s collections have been collaborations with some of the biggest names in fashion, such as Gigi Hadid and Winnie Harlow. This season began Hilfiger’s partnership with Zendaya. At just twenty-two, the actress is already well-known for her style. Here, she turned her eye to the seventies. Many of the looks were rendered in denim - even blazers and trench coat dresses. There was also a lot of burgundy leather and a variety of stripes. Between the polos and bellbottoms, this show had a distinctly retro vibe. The evening wear section of the collection featured a variety of sparkly jumpsuits and dresses that would be right at home in Studio 54. The cast was made up entirely of black models and featured modeling legends including Pat Cleveland, Brandi Quinones, and Beverly Peele. Grace Jones, queen of disco herself, closed the show to her hit song “Pull Up to the Bumper”.

—VALENTINO
Like Tommy Hilfiger above, this season’s Valentino collection was done as part of a collaboration. Many of the collection’s shirts, dresses, and coats featured two distinct prints; one of a statue of two lovers and another of a rose. These silhouettes of these objects were used in a variety of collages - most commonly in a starry, galaxy pattern. Overlaid across the print were phrases like “There is forever beyond the sky, I think we should go there tonight”. The print was created in collaboration with Jun Takahashi of the streetwear brand, Undercover, whose logo also appeared on several coats. Valentino designer, Pierpaolo Piccioli, also tapped poets to write pieces inspired by the brand. Several lines from the resulting poetry anthology were featured on the pieces of the collection, as well as the backdrop of the runway set. Like the poetry that inspired it, this season’s Valentino was richly romantic and filled with the kind of graceful cuts that Piccioli is known and loved for.

—GIVENCHY
Suits were front and center at Givenchy this season. Blazers have been in high demand recently and there were no shortage of options here. The opening looks featured whimsically puffed shoulders, styled with a belt like we’ve been seeing on the street all season. Others kept the strong shoulder and belt, but cut more sharply to give it a more serious, business-like feel. Still more were cropped, or flared at the waist to give them a feminine appeal. Evening wear offerings included blazers with rhinestone-encrusted lapels, and one that was cropped across the shoulders and worn with a one-sleeved, bow-like puff. For those seeking for something more feminine, Clare Weight Keller offered up plenty of dress options; both classically sleek maxis with prints, or more dramatic taffeta minis that featured bell sleeves large enough to mimic capes. No matter what you’re looking for, chances are Givenchy has you covered.

—STELLA MCCARTNEY
As a designer, Stella McCartney is dedicated to consciousness and sustainability. Her products have always been vegan and environmentally-friendly. This season, she also used her show to promote #thereshegrows, a campaign McCartney started to raise awareness for deforestation. Besides environmental activism, the brand is known for its casual, but cool clothing. This season was no different. The large volumes of the eighties were the perfect sandbox for McCartney, who tends to prefer a looser fit. However, most of her loose sundresses were left unbelted, or were shown with the belts undone. Shoulder pads made a few appearances in the collection, as well as power suits - jumpsuits, that is. The use of colorful yarn accessories, and even one dress made of rainbow fringe, gave the collection a playful and relaxed air.

—ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Despite showing at Paris Fashion Week, Alexander McQueen has its roots in Britain. For this season, designer Sarah Burton took the brand to the north of England, where she grew up. The towns there are renowned for their textile creation, particularly the rich wools that made up the majority of the collection’s opening looks. There is also the Prince of Wales check, which appeared as two, very different blazers. Draping was another major theme of the collection. It began with blazers and coats that featured a draped panel, or woolen coats with handkerchief hems. As the collection moved on, the tailoring became tighter, with drapes folding back in on themselves. The final looks took this one step further by turning the draping into spirals that took the form of roses - not unlike those the towns of northern England are known for.

—CHANEL
Before this season’s Chanel show began, there was a moment of silence in memory of Karl Lagerfeld. The legendary designer, who served as Chanel’s designer and creative director for over thirty years, passed away only weeks before. However, the show itself was not a memoriam, which was done in accordance with Lagerfeld’s wishes. Instead, his final collection for the brand was shown in much the same way as every one before. Magnificent sets are a staple of Chanel shows, and this season’s whisked its guests away to a luxurious, mountaintop ski resort. Models were dressed appropriately for the (figurative) chilly weather, with many wearing heavy wool coats, jackets, and sweaters. Along with little black dresses and purses, Chanel is practically synonymous with tweed. Besides the classic matching suits, there were long winter coats and dresses made of the textile. Some of the outerwear incorporated folded necklines similar to the ones shown in the design house’s most recent couture line. During his four decade-long tenure at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld had a number of muses. Several, including Cara Delevingne and Penelope Cruz, returned to Chanel’s catwalk to honor the late designer. As they walked the finale, many of the models could be seen fighting back tears. The beautiful show provoked a similar reaction from guests, and no doubt viewers at home, showing just how much the iconic designer will be missed.

—MIU MIU
Capes have been a major street style trend recently, and this season’s Miu Miu collection offered up a compelling argument to keep them in style. They came in almost every length imaginable and were composed of all kinds of materials; wool, shearling, velvet - even one that was fully crocheted. Outerwear that had more of a classic jacket or coat silhouette still included arm slits as opposed to sleeves. The collection’s pallet included a wide range of colors, but heavily featured camo print, as well as floral embellishments. Underneath were a variety of shorts, mini-skirts, and dresses, many of which were paired with thigh-high stockings. As the brand is often considered the “younger sister” of Prada, this was a fitting styling choice. Artist and photographer, Sharna Osborne (who also shot Miu Miu’s Pre-Fall 2019 campaign), helped design a runway set that was partially inspired by her teenage bedroom. The multimedia installation served as a perfect backdrop for a collection that evoked the loss of innocence and the transition into adulthood.

—LOUIS VUITTON
Visitors to the Louis Vuitton show may have been confused when they first arrived at this year’s venue. The brand typically stages its collections at the Louvre. However, the runway set this year was designed to look like another famous Parisian museum; the Centre Georges Pompidou. The boldly-colored pipes and industrial feel of the show space was the perfect backdrop for a show that drew heavy inspiration from the eighties. While other eighties-minded collections focused on the silhouette, Nicholas Ghesquière also brought in the decade’s penchant for maximalism. Each look had a strong sense of individuality, and basics were few and far between. There were bright colors and prints, often paired together - sometimes in the same garment! Instead of padding (though they did make a few appearances), ruffles were used to emphasize the shoulders. Even though there were themes and motifs in the collection - such as wide lapels or ruffled yokes - every look offered up something completely different than the last. The over-the-top drama of this collection was the perfect way to close out another stellar runway season.

[image source: Vogue Runway]

[virgotrash]

Hilfiger was ICONIC! Zendaya did that!!!